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Specialty Ingredients

Natural Omega-6 Oils – The Natural Moisturizers

Borage Oil and Evening Primrose Oil

Studies conducted over the years have revealed that, although water plays an important role in keeping the skin moist and supple the ability of the top layers of the skin (stratum corneum) to resist moisture loss depends on the presence of certain long chain polyunsaturated lipids known as essential fatty acids (EFA).

These lipids classified as Omega-6 lipids cannot be synthesized by the body, although when topically applied, they can be metabolized in the skin and directly incorporated into the structural lipids of the epidermis (ceramides); the building blocks of the water barrier of the stratum corneum.

Evening Primrose Oil and Borage Oil (the latter also known as Starflower Oil) are rich sources of Omega-6 Lipids and in particular gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).

Insignificant levels of GLA are detected in mammalian skin, because the epidemis lacks the enzymes necessary to convert linoleic acid into gamma-linolenic acid. Therefore, there is a need to provide the body with products containing this material. Topical application of Borage Oil and Evening Primrose Oil significantly increase the level of GLA in the stratum corneum.

The most important topical benefits are:

  • Help repair the natural moisture barrier of the skin by maintaining the multiple extracellular sheets of the bilayers in the stratum corneum.
  • Enhance the moisture retention ability (MRA) of the skin from within (non-occlusive moisturization). therefore, keeping it moist and supple
  • Induce the proper differentiation of the epidermal cells into normal and effective stratum corneum.

Additional Information

Phospholipid Emulsifiers

Amphisol® Emulsifiers – General Benefits

The Amphisol emulsifiers were synthesized as analogs to the natural phospholipids in the skin (lecithins and cephalins).

These analogs were chosen to develop o/w emulsifiers which are safe and compatible with the skin and have the same pH as the skin.

Attributes

  • Form stable o/w emulsions.
  • As primary emulsifiers, 1 – 3% levels are sufficient to form mild and elegant emulsions
  • As stabilizers, only 0.25% to 0.50% levels are necessary
  • Cost effective due to low levels needed
  • Increase the SPF values of sun care and everyday cosmetics by improving the spreadability of the UV filters
  • Useful in formulating water resistant sun care products
  • Ideal for use in creams and lotions for sensitive skin

The Emulsifiers

  • Amphisol – Diethanolamine Cetyl Phosphate
    • An anionic o/w emulsifier

  • Amphisol® K - Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
    • The anionic o/w potassium salt of Cetyl Phosphate

  • Amphisol® A - Cetyl Phosphate
    • The non-neutralized homolog of the Amphisol family
    • Must be neutralized to act as an o/w/ emulsifier
    • Can be neutralized with various bases.
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