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UV Filters

General Benefits
  • UV Filters are ingredients which absorb, reflect, scatter and block ultraviolet radiation.
  • They are formulated into personal care products to protect skin and hair from the damaging effects of sunlight.
  • UV filters are also used as stabilizers, to protect the integrity of the finished products (color and fragrance).

Product Types
  • UVB filters
  • UVA filters

Major Product Groups by Structure
  • Cinnamates
  • Benzophenones
  • PABA derivatives
  • Salicylates
  • Physical UV blockers (Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide)
  • Dibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789)

UVB Radiation – Characteristics and Effects
  • The wavelength of the UVB band is between 290 to 320 nm.
  • Penetration is mostly into the epidermis.
  • The most active UV radiation in producing erythema.
  • UVB is called the sunburn radiation.
  • UVB is considered to be primarily responsible for induction of skin cancer due to damage to DNA.
  • UVB (and UVA as well) is suspected to affect the Langerhan cells in the epidermis and , therefore, the immunologic defense

UVA Radiation – Characteristics and Effects
  • The wavelength of the UVB band is between 320 – 400 NM
  • The UVA band is divided into two subsets:
    • UVA II       320 – 340 NM
    • UVA I        340 – 400 NM
  • Ten times more UVA reaches the Earth's surface than UVB.
  • UVA penetrates deeper into the skin than UVB, thereby having a stronger effect on the dermis.
  • UVA radiation produces damage to cellular proteins, lipids and carbohydrates.
  • UVA radiation involves generation of singlet oxygen and hydroxyl radicals.
  • The lethal action of UVA on mammalian cells is strongly dependent on the presence of oxygen.
  • Although DNA absorption of UVA is weak, it can cause structural changes in the DNA molecule (crosslinking).
  • Researchers suggest UVA II (320 – 340 NM) in the most damaging to blood vessels.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)
  • In response to the increased awareness to the adverse effects of sunlight, biological procedures for quantifying sunscreen effectiveness have been developed in the United States, Australia and Europe.
  • Differences exist among methods.

SPF Definition
  • The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is defined as:

"The UV energy required to produce a minimal erythermal dose (MED) on protected skin, divided by the UV energy required to produce MED on unprotected skin".

            MED - protected skin

SPF Value = __________________________

            MED - unprotected skin

MED Definition
  • MED (Minimal Erythymal Dose) is defined as:

"The quantity of radiant energy required to produce the first perceptible redness with clearly defined borders, assessed 16–24 hours after UV exposure."

Factors Influencing the SPF Value
  • Skin Type
  • UV intensity-irradiation dose of UVB, UVA, latitude, altitude, reflection, and cloud cover
  • Radiation source – emission spectrum
  • Concentration of sunscreen actives
  • Vehicle – formula composition
  • Properties of applied film – uniformity, spreadability, thickness
  • Physical/chemical properties of sunscreens – substantivity, percutaneous absorption
  • Environment – temperature, humidity, direct and scattered radiation
  • Sweating – skin temperature, amount inorganic salts present
  • Swimming – duration of swimming
  • Testing procedures – errors in erythema visualization
  • Photosensitizers – reddening of the skin can lead to false results

The UVB Filters

The UVA Filter

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