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DSM in Personal Care

Leveraging DSM’s Bright Sciences in the service of beauty

Our Personal Care R&D teams have direct and unparalleled access to DSM’s unique competences in both Life Sciences and Materials Sciences.
Internal Innovation

This includes the expertise and technology needed to design novel compounds and discover active ingredients plus the ability to transform them into valuable applications – and of course demonstrate their safety and efficacy.

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PARSOL®: Forty years of experience in production of UV filters

UV filters are well known to be difficult to integrate into cosmetic products, but a precise knowledge of their properties and profiles makes us uniquely expert in their selection and blending. We design and synthesize all the molecules for our UV filters with critical aspects of cosmetic formulation and applications in mind.

Added to this we have the capacity to demonstrate the safety and efficacy of filters within regulatory boundary conditions, plus the competence to measure SPF in vitro and in vivo and satisfy local regulatory requirements in the EU, Japan and the USA. Our in-vivo studies are designed in-house, although we outsource the actual testing for UV efficacy and skin tolerance.

Recent studies revealed a consumer demand for improved sensory profiles of sun care formulations. We believe this represents the biggest market opportunity to increase consumer sunscreen acceptance, and developing appropriate sensory modifiers is therefore a major focus of our formulation and applications team.

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Synthetic peptides: tiny molecules with huge potential

Our interest in peptides dates back to the 1950s, when DSM first started extracting and purifying proteins for pharmaceutical applications. In the early 2000s DSM became one of the first companies to explore the potential of synthetic peptides for cosmetic applications, culminating in the first launch of our SYN®-Peptides in 2005.

Drawing on our knowledge of skin biological processes we identify targets in the skin and translate this knowledge into the molecular structure of an active peptide. To take just one example: DSM has developed a potent synthetic tripeptide, SYN®-COLL, which could mimic TSP-1 activity to activate latent TGF-β. Comprehensive in-vitro tests have demonstrated its effectiveness in stimulating collagen synthesis, mimicking a natural process in the skin. And clinical studies have confirmed the outstanding efficacy of SYN®-COLL in reducing signs of aging.

We are thus able to design, produce, analyze and deliver molecules right up to full production scale, while an in-depth knowledge of peptide processing technology ensures quality and flexibility over the whole production process.

Long history of expertise in vitamins

No other ingredient category enjoys consumer trust like the vitamins and DSM is the world’s leading vitamin supplier, with over 100 years of experience. We are proud to have pioneered the application of vitamins in the whole spectrum of beauty products and leverage our accumulated expertise to maximize the potential of vitamins for sun, skin and hair care products.

With high-quality vitamins from our comprehensive portfolio our customers can deliver state-of-the-art beauty products that also meet people’s demands for reliability, traceability and sustainability.

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Natural beauty from within

So yes, Nature provides outstanding ingredients that work wonders in the skin. But it takes high-quality science to find them and make them available to people all over the world.

At DSM we have access to the huge database of natural extracts and analytical data held by our Human Nutrition and Health arm. We draw on these resources to identify and isolate promising skin care bioactives, extract them and test them for safety and effectiveness – for example in our ALPAFLOR® range of high-performing skin bioactives.

Biotechnology in the service of personal care

Biotechnology not only delivers natural products but fully satisfies requirements for sustainability and cost-effectiveness within the context of best manufacturing practices. These are always at the forefront of our minds in R&D when investigating the best route to find an active ingredient to synthesize or developing products like our ERYTHRULOSE natural tanning agent, yeast products like ELHIBIN® PF, or the hydration expert PENTAVITIN®.

Materials Sciences provide stunning hair care polymers

Collaboration with our colleagues in Materials Sciences in the field of polymer technology enabled us to select the polymers that make up our TILAMAR® range of hair care and hairstyling ingredients from a huge existing portfolio of polymer types. DSM’s competences in macromolecular science provided specialized know-how on the cross-linking of polymers, polymer degradation and stability and interface chemistry – all of which are pivotal in ensuring that customers further down the value chain get the results they want from different polymer classes.

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