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DSM in Personal Care

Latest SCCS opinion on alpha-arbutin confirms it is safe for cosmetic use

Kaiseraugst, CH, 29 Jul 2015 09:00 CEST

The extensive safety dossier submitted by DSM Personal Care convinced the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) that alpha-arbutin is safe for cosmetic use. In its latest Opinion, the SCCS concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe at levels of up to 2% in face care products and up to 0.5% in body care products.
Alpha-arbutin in cosmetics

In recent years arbutin became subject of safety discussion in the EU. Following the opinion on beta-arbutin, published in 2008 by the SCCS (SCCP/1158/08), the EU Commission called for additional safety data on alpha-arbutin in 2010. In response to the call, DSM safety and regulatory experts submitted an exhaustive product dossier to prove the safety of alpha-arbutin. In particular, the evaluation of hydroquinone release, data on alpha-arbutin stabilization in formulated cosmetic products, as well as test results explaining the behavior of alpha-arbutin on the skin have been submitted for safety evaluation.

Dr. Mathias Gempeler, Head Global Marketing Skin Care at DSM, comments: "Skin tone application is one of the biggest growing segments in the skin care market, especially in the Asian markets. I’m extremely pleased with the positive SCCS opinion as it allows the cosmetic industry to continue using this high-performing and easy-to-formulate active ingredient.”

DSM introduced alpha-arbutin to the cosmetic industry more than 10 years ago. The unique activity of alpha-arbutin in promoting the appearance of an even skin tone has been shown in several clinical studies1,2. At a 1% concentration level, the molecule outperformed other commonly-used cosmetic ingredients such as kojic acid and beta-arbutin.

1 Ziegler and Meyer; Personal Care Magazine (2003) 336-01, 15-18
2 K. Sugimoto et al; Trends in Glycoscience and Glycotechnology (2007) Vol 19; No110; 235-246