Kaiseraugst, CH, 04 Jul 2016 12:00 CEST
DSM Personal Care unveils new data on its leading emulsifier brand AMPHISOL® K, which proves its superior applicability in novel cosmetics formulations compared to similar potassium cetyl phosphate emulsification technologies. The new findings reconfirm the status of AMPHISOL® K as gold standard in robust emulsification for cosmetics formulations.
The sensorial appeal of personal care products now ranks, alongside product efficacy, as an extremely important decision driver. In this context, growing demands for multi-tasking product forms, such as alphabet creams, and for novel product textures pose new challenges for formulators. For example, adapting cosmetic formulations to give a lighter texture and provide a refreshing skin sensation can be achieved by increasing the alcohol content. The ability to increase the alcohol or caprylylglycol concentration also gives formulators greater flexibility in their choice of emulsion preservative system, or may even eliminate the need for one. In the case of color cosmetic formulations of all kinds, the product must be able to incorporate sometimes large quantities of pigments like titanium dioxide either used as colorant or UV-filter.
Results of new tests performed by DSM confirmed a correlation between lower phosphate content in the product form and better alcohol and pigment compatibility. Comparison of a number of market emulsifiers using the same technology showed AMPHISOL® K to have a phosphate content that was anything from 3 to 84 times lower than the comparisons. The study demonstrated that with AMPHISOL® K ethanol concentrations between 0% and 15% can be stabilized in formulation and that AMPHISOL® K also outperformed similar market technologies for pigment compatibility.
The test results also revealed that market products using potassium cetyl phosphate technologies with the highest levels of phosphate showed phase separation after a few weeks, whereas others with medium to high phosphate levels showed a dramatic increase in viscosity over time. In contrast, with AMPHISOL® K tests with pigment concentrations up to 10% showed viscosity remained stable over the 3-month test period compared to competition.
Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care at DSM, comments: “Our recently published findings from new research provide evidence of AMPHISOL® K’s unique mechanism for long term stability. These latest findings once again prove that AMPHISOL® K is the emulsifier of choice, giving formulators multiple possibilities to develop a new generation of highly sophisticated sunscreens and face care formulations whilst also taking account of sensorial needs".
Using cutting-edge technology known as freeze-fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy, DSM has for the first time visualized that AMPHISOL® K uniquely forms the rarely seen micro-domains in emulsions, which are supposed to stabilize the so-called liquid crystalline vesicular structures. Therefore the oil-in-water emulsifier AMPHISOL® K is capable of delivering outstanding stability combined with ease of product development.