With more consumers challenging negative attitudes to growing and being older, the shift toward pro-ageing is gaining traction. But in facial skin care, what exactly does pro-ageing ageing well mean? And if we can’t give a clear definition, how do we reconcile this with the growing demand for evidence that product claims can be trusted?
Ageing well and delivering efficacy were two major themes at IFSCC Congress 2022. In line with this, and to support people’s desire for more holistic, healthy ageing approaches, our scientists have been investigating new potential in our most effective pro-ageing personal care ingredients. They shared their findings at three poster sessions with a firm emphasis on hard facts and proven results.
Dr Dominik Imfeld, Senior Lead Scientist at DSM, presented two posters on Retinol – the gold standard ingredient for anti-ageing skincare and one of our core research areas:
Boosting of retinol activity using novel lecithin retinol acyltransferase inhibitors
The enzyme Lecithin retinol acyltransferase (LRAT) catalyzes the esterification of retinol to retinyl-esters. Using molecular modelling, DSM has created a synthetic inhibitor to the enzyme LRAT. By inhibiting LRAT, we can boost and optimize Retinol activity in the skin at all times.
Retinyl palmitate for high level efficacy when combined with 10-hydroxy stearic acid
DSM has proved that retinol palmitate, a stable precursor of Retinol leads to comparable collagen stimulation effect. This can be further boosted when combined with biotechnologically manufactured 10 HSA.
Dr Remo Campiche, Senior Lead Scientists at DSM presents one poster:
Human milk oligosaccharides attenuate solar irradiation induced inflammation and oxidative stress in human skin
Human milk oligosaccharides (HMOs) are an important part of human breast milk and regulate infant health via several beneficial effects on the gut. In a new study, we leveraged HMOs for topical applications and can show that distinct HMOs show differential protection against solar radiation induced inflammation and oxidative stress in vitro and ex vivo. These results suggest that HMOs have an anti-aging effect in skin in vivo, expanding the choice of anti-aging molecules for cosmetic formulation.
