The trend of using facial skincare ingredients in suncare care is taking our industry by storm. Consumers in the know are already seeking out and enjoying the benefits that skin actives can bring to their make-up and haircare products — and now, this trend has extended to the world of suncare as well.
Protecting skin against harmful effects of UV radiation such as skin cancer and photoaging will always be cornerstones of suncare. And with good reason. However, the story doesn’t end there because UV radiation also induces DNA damage and oxidative stress, weakening the skin barrier and dehydrating the skin. The visible effects of these processes are varied and undesirable: fine lines and wrinkles, decreased elasticity, dark spots or an uneven complexion and excessive skin dryness, redness and irritation.
There is still a tendency to associate dedicated SPF products with sunburn, the beach and outdoor activity only. However, with consumers’ interest in skin health growing, as part of the broader trend for self-care and wellness, we have a golden opportunity to counter this perception.
As consumers' needs evolve, our suncare formulations proposals have evolved by including ingredients that target the beauty and skin health concerns people seek to address in their everyday skin care routines.
Suncare is evolving towards daily skin care. And If you are wondering where to start or need inspiration as you embark on this new journey, look no further!
At dsm-firmenich, we’ve combined the best of our expertise in skin science and suncare, along with our sensory know-how to bring you “Evolusun” — a new concept in suncare with everything to keep skin healthy inside and out.
“Evolusun” features sun protection formulations with scientifically proven antioxidants, moisturizers and skin barrier protection ingredients to nourish, hydrate and rejuvenate skin. All the benefits that consumers seek for their skincare routine, in easy-to-apply formats and with textures they will want to keep using.
Here, you can see a few examples of how we bring this concept to life, and it's just the beginning. Stay tuned for more coming soon!
Products are for illustration only, not for sale. dsm-firmenich is not responsible for final products claims.
Ingredient-savvy consumers care as much about performance and supporting evidence as you do. So when it comes to adding extra skin benefits to sun protection formulations, a proven ingredient like our hero moisture magnet PENTAVITIN® is a good place to start. Let’s explore why.
As the skin’s outermost layer, the skin barrier acts as a protective shield for the layers below. When functioning well, it is key to healthy looking and feeling skin, but UV radiation can disrupt this natural function, impairing its ability to retain moisture. This means that efficient hydration is essential to restore it and keep it strong, and PENTAVITIN® offers a highly relevant solution in this regard.
In vitro studies show that, thanks to its unique skin-binding action, PENTAVITIN® can reverse the five signs of dehydrated skin — roughness, dullness, flakiness, tightness, and redness — and the short and longer-term hydration boost it can deliver has been visualized and demonstrated on different skin types. However, the process of repairing the sun-damaged skin barrier involves more than just hydration. It is also essential to alleviate irritation and strengthen the epidermis to support hydration in the future.
Recently, dsm-firmenich, commissioned new in vitro studies to explore the potential of PENTAVITIN® beyond its hydrating power. The results provide compelling evidence that it has a significant restorative, soothing, and strengthening effect, as it targets and supports key proteins in these outermost layers of the skin.
The in vitro study analyzed eight key proteins associated with the skin barrier, which play different roles: some are associated with barrier repair and natural hydration, others with barrier recovery and strength, and some with skin redness. To detect the expression of these proteins, scientists used EpiKutis®, a laboratory-reconstructed 3D human epidermal model irradiated with UVB light. After administering PENTAVITIN® (at a concentration of 0.5%), the efficacy of this ingredient was evaluated through Immunofluorescence (IF), Immunohistochemistry (IHC), or ELISA. In all eight cases, PENTAVITIN® showed a significant beneficial effect, demonstrating its ability to support UV-irradiated skin barrier and reduce redness. The following, we showcase the findings for the specific proteins associated with barrier repair, hydration, and skin redness.
Filaggrin (FLG) is a key protein for epidermal barrier function and for stratum corneum moisturization (as it is a precursor to Natural Moisturising Factor).
In this study, analysis using immunofluorescence revealed that UVB irradiation led to a notable decrease in Filaggrin content in the test vehicle. However, a significant 77% increase in Filaggrin content was recorded following treatment with PENTAVITIN®. We also looked at additional proteins such as Loricrin, Involucrin, Transglutaminase-1 and Keratins 1 and 10 which play key roles in the skin barrier and its moisturization. Whereas all of these proteins were strongly downregulated by the UV light, the addition of PENTAVITIN® clearly re-boosted their levels. This finding indicates that PENTAVITIN® can indeed help repair UVB induced damage to skin.
Significances are expressed by UVB irradiated vehicle vs non treated control as # # and UVB irradiated vehicle vs PENTAVITIN as * P-value < 0.05
The green IF is the Filaggrin protein expression site, and the stronger the IF intensity the higher the Filaggrin content.
Interleukin 8 (IL-8) is a pro-inflammatory cytokine secreted in large quantities after inflammation occurs. Another key pro-inflammatory messenger is Tumour Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF α) which can be triggered by UVB light and is associated with chronic inflammation and inflammatory pain. In this study, levels of both IL-8 and TNF α increased sharply following UV induced stress, as expected, but after treatment with PENTAVITIN®, a significant 30% decrease in IL-8 and an equally significant 26% decrease in TNF α were observed — a strong indication that this ingredient can help soothe signs of skin redness and irritation after UV stress.
Significances are expressed by UVB irradiated vehicle vs non treated control as # # and UVB irradiated vehicle vs PENTAVITIN as ** P-value < 0.01
In addition to its proven performance, PENTAVITIN® is a 100% natural ingredient sustainably derived from biodegradable, edible maize kernels. It can be easily combined with many other ingredients and works equally well in high and low SPF formulations, providing plenty of options for product development.
Want to know more about the restorative power of PENTAVITIN®? Get all the data here.