The natural skin care ingredient PEPHA®-AGE stimulates skin’s own defense against the negative impact of blue light protecting the skin barrier and boost the collagen synthesis.
DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients was one of the main sponsors at this year’s scientific congress IFSCC 2018, held from September 18-21 in Munich. The IFSCC offers a perfect ground to gain new insights in the field of cosmetics, as well as networking opportunities with other people within the personal care industry. Under the overall theme, “Cosmetics: Science for Beauty and Lifestyle”, this year, the IFSCC Congress explored what modern society wants in terms of beauty and lifestyle.
People who met DSM’s scientist were able to gain more insights about the art of rational design of skin care ingredients, aided by molecular modeling. We provided updates on our latest research in skin biology and deeper insights into how we use sophisticated technologies, such as mass spec for proteomics, to underscore our scientific approach. Furthermore, visitors were able to connect with our leading scientists in sun care on consumer habits when it comes to applying sunscreen formulations – and about how these behaviors might be influenced by a better sensory. Latest scientific findings were also been presented on blue light, as scientists in our Sun and Skin Care segments began already in 2017 with dedicated research to further investigate blue light activity in the skin, derived from both visible sunlight and electronic devices.
Overall, we contributed to the IFSCC conference in 2018 with ten posters and one exclusive talk. These scientific researches give you insights on how our different competences enable us to develop active ingredients across all application areas. We presented different case studies that show how we identify and characterize relevant biological pathways for skin to design effective solutions according to different skin needs. Furthermore, we dedicated our research in how to develop and apply new methodologies to measure and visualize the effects of our ingredients. Much of this work has been realized due to our extensive network of collaboration with external partners and universities.
In case you missed us at the congress, please find all the 10 presented posters for download here.
Poster number: P-S4-011
Title: Phenotypic changes in the corneome and ceramidome of photodamaged dry facial stratum corneum from different ethnic groups
The aim of this study was to utilise mass spectrometry-based ceramidomics and proteomics to understand more precisely the effects of stratum corneum maturation and its relation to facial photodamage, skin pigmentation and ethnicity and to explain some of these differences. The study was a co-operation between DSM, Phylogene (FR), Lipotype (DE), Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University (ZA) and AVR Consulting (UK).
Poster number: P-S4-012
Title: Changes in protein deglycase DJ-1 expression with age in photoprotected and photoexposed skin
Protein deglycase DJ-1 is an anti-oxidant protein. It recently has been found, in the stratum corneum, to be associated with the skin’s response to ultraviolet radiation. We therefore dedicated this research to learn more about this potentially important protein for skin health and its changes with age. The study was a co-operation between DSM, the University of Manchester (UK) and AVR Consulting (UK).
Poster number: P-S4-038
Title: Characterization of the lipids from the corneocyte lipid envelope of human stratum corneum
The objective of this study was the investigation, quantification, and comparison of the molecular composition of the lipids of the corneocyte lipid envelope and the characterization of covalently bound ceramides. The study was a co-operation between DSM, Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg (DE), Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University (ZA) and AVR Consulting (UK).
Poster number: P-S4-095
Title: Image-based continuous p-value evaluation: A novel approach to detect and visualize integral efficacy of skin care treatments
Based on the recently introduced color mapping technology, we now present a novel approach to continuously map statistical significance levels (p-values) of cutaneous parameters on the face. We relate this approach to skin tone modulation on Asian volunteers using an anti-aging peptide.
Authors: Remo Campiche, Sarah Gougeon, Rainer Voegeli, Marie Cherel, Anthony V. Rawlings and Pierre Séroul
Poster number: P-S4-113
Title: The effect of relative humidity on ex -vivo maturation of facial corneocyte envelopes in Chinese subjects
The aim of this work was to screen the maturity of corneocyte envelopes at different relative humidity’s and to determine transglutaminase activity on tape stripping’s obtained from photo-exposed and photo-protected facial sites of Chinese. The study was a co-operation between DSM, the University College of London (UK) and AVR Consulting (UK).
Poster number: P-S4-355
Title: Deciphering the action of (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid, on the secretome of dermal fibroblasts by mass spectrometry-based proteomics
10-hydroxystearic acid has shown to improve in- vivo on human skin the appearance of age spots and conspicuous pores. In this study we are using proteome analysis to get the full picture, of which protein-based biological markers are up- or downregulated to give more insights and understanding on the biochemical mechanisms that are potentially involved.
Authors: Dominik Imfeld, Eliane Wandeler, Rolf Schuetz, Gilbert Skorski and Anthony Rawlings
Poster number: P-S1-501
Title: Inhibition of cutaneous cortisol activation: a novel approach to protect skin from stress induced damage and accelerated aging
With hectic lifestyle induced stress and age the cortisol level in skin increases and causes negative effects on skin. We show the story of our innovation BEL-EVEN® and for the first time the scientific publication of the in-vivo study results demonstrating the impressive benefits from cortisol inhibition which is a huge need for today’s consumer.
Authors: Dominik Imfeld, Remo Campiche, Eliane Wandeler and Eileen Jackson
Poster number: P-S2-326
Title: How to establish a meaningful blue light protection claim?
The damaging effect of solar UV irradiation on skin is well documented, whereas the contribution of the visible light, especially the high energetic blue light is not fully understood. Here, we report methods for scientific claim substantiation on blue light protection that relate to consumer relevant situations. The proposed workflow facilitates a viable way for claim substantiation resulting in suitable ingredients that combine antioxidant supplementation and blue light filters for bio-physical protection of skin against visible light, especially related to outdoor and indoor and exposure to blue light.
Authors: Rolf Schuetz, Christine Mendrok-Edinger, Remo Campiche, Karolina Strauss, Jürgen Vollhardt
Poster number: P-S2-328
Title: Consumers using less than recommended to optimize the appeal of sunscreens – A consumer habits and practices study compared to the sensorial reality in the market
The main cause of skin cancer is overexposure to sunlight, which is why sunscreens are crucial to the prevention of sun-induced skin damage. However, it is well known that many consumers apply less than the recommended amount of sunscreen, or even none at all. We asked 5,600 consumers in eight different countries what they thought about sun protection and sunscreens and if/when/how they applied sun protection products. The results were compared with earlier studies on use level, and in parallel the sensory profiles of several sunscreens have been analyzed. The aim was to understand potential barriers that lead to a lack of UV protection on the consumers side – and to develop solutions that are increasing the willingness of people to apply sunscreen as recommended.
Authors: Jürgen Vollhardt, Michele Marchini, Anne Jansen, Madina Sautova and Rotraut Schopp
Poster number: P-S2-331
Title: Prediction of in vivo SPF data: the role of the surface - UV filter interaction
Predicting SPF in vivo can be done by in vitro or in silico experiments. Key is that the sunscreen film on skin is not at all regular. Roughness has a strong influence on the performance. Prediction strategies often fail if this parameter is not adequately considered. We experimentally compared sunscreen film formation on skin and templates with confocal Raman microscopy and revealed significant differences that impact performance prediction. Taking those into account can make our models more accurate and more reliable.
Authors: Michael Edelmann, Stefanie Hauser, Patrick Schüepp, Anne Janssen, Karina Radomsky, Jürgen Vollhardt, and Christian Adlhart
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists is dedicated to international cooperation in cosmetic science and technology. The theme of its 2018 congress was “Cosmetics: Science for Beauty and Lifestyles”. After the conference, Silke Adamietz, Marketing Communication Manager, caught up with Thomas Rudolph (Head of R&D Personal Care) and Mathias Gempeler (Head of Science & Promotion Skin Care) to find out more about this year’s hot topics.
Silke: The focus of this year’s IFSCC conference was very much about exploring what modern society wants when it comes to beauty and lifestyle. Did any particular themes stand out for you both and is DSM ready to respond to these?
Mathias: It was interesting to see how many of the key topics discussed at the conference already chime with DSM’s research and recent innovations. A number of sessions discussed shielding the skin from blue light or environmental stressors such as pollution and sun exposure. Others looked at skin aging, stress and cortisol, or at the importance of skin hydration. The skin microbiome is also getting more and more attention. All these themes have been close to DSM’s heart in the past year: Pentavitin® for example was developed to address the skin dryness often associated with urban living, while our unique synthetic molecule BEL-EVEN® has been shown to rebalance cortisol levels in stressed skin.
Thomas: A key subject at this year’s IFSCC in my opinion was “light” and new findings related to its adverse effects. Analysis went well beyond the traditional discussion about “UV” to unveil the effects that visible (in particular blue) light can have on skin.
Silke: DSM was one of first companies to present research on blue light so it is interesting to see this subject gaining momentum. Would you say that the risks blue light poses, whether from the visible sunlight or from electronic devices, are becoming more substantiated?
Thomas: The blue light discussion reminds me a little bit of the UVA debate in the 1990s. Back then, standardized UVA claim substantiation was not available, but UVA claims have featured on labels ever since and grown into a long-term trend worldwide. Knowing that biology does not stop sharply at 400nm why shouldn’t blue light become the next UVA?
Silke: So how can DSM take this forward?
Thomas: Looking at the various individual test methods around “blue light protection”, as presented during the conference, it seems that objectification about blue light protection via harmonized standards may become important in the future. At DSM we are prepared to proactively contribute to this challenge. In fact, our ongoing studies into our bioactive PEPHA®-AGE, our vitamins, and particulate UV filters are built on four major pillars for blue light claim substantiation: the prevention of hyper-pigmentation (in vivo), protein carbonylation (ex vivo), the preservation of carotenoids, and classical light attenuation measurement (in vitro, in vivo). Compared with other results presented at the IFSCC conference, we are convinced that thanks to IP protected technologies covering particulate organic and inorganic UV filters such as PARSOL® Max and PARSOL® TX, or the combination of our vitamins B3 and B6, DSM can provide the highest blue light protection factors.
Mathias: Blue light protection seems like an ideal field for DSM as it combines our expertise in skin biology and photo protection in a holistic approach.
Silke: From your experience at the conference would you say that these kinds of overlaps and synergies are a growing trend in personal care?
Mathias: Definitely, and one of the areas where this could be seen most clearly during the conference was in the change of narrative around anti-aging. The focus here is shifting away from addressing specific issues in isolation, to a more holistic view of well-being and aging gracefully. So, moisturization, UV protection, a natural-looking glow and boosting barrier resilience to improve how skin feels or address sensitivity all become part of the package. This requires a change in scientific approach. Traditional anti-aging ingredients have tended to target the dermis primarily, but there is more attention now on the stratum corneum and processes in the epidermis, which is logical when you consider that the skin barrier is the skin’s first line of defense.
Our new cosmetic ingredient BEL-EVEN® is a good example of this holistic approach. By reversibly inhibiting activation of the “stress hormone” cortisol in the skin, this ingredient has been shown to increase skin density, boost elasticity and skin barrier function, and offer protection against transepidermal water loss. All these factors can have an impact on the appearance of skin wrinkles. So inhibiting cortisol activation in skin appears to be a very promising approach for both coping with today’s lifestyle stresses and delaying the skin aging process in the long term.
Silke: One of the hottest topics in the sphere of holistic beauty at the moment is the skin microbiome and I see that this featured prominently in the conference program. As we have recently embarked on both original scientific research and parallel market-related studies on the skin microbiome, which discussions did you find particularly interesting and do you see evidence that we are on the right track?
Mathias: The skin microbiome is currently enjoying increasingly attention in skin care. In addition to general talks on the topic there were discussions about very specific methods such as Quorum Quenching which can be used to block microbial communication (or Quorum Sensing) and disarm bacteria. There is real potential here for plant-based ingredients that can prevent unwanted microbial action in skin without killing microbiota.
Because of its expertise in both the gut microbiome and epidermal care, DSM has been able to establish a strong position within skin microbiome research from the outset. Our initial focus has been on the interaction between skin actives and the microbiome and our early findings are very promising. As I mentioned earlier, in personal care there is an increasing focus on the role skin barrier function plays in achieving beautiful skin. Over the years we have built up in-depth understanding of serine protease activity in human skin and we believe that a resilient skin barrier goes hand in hand with equilibrium in the skin microbiome. Our patented peptide derivative, SYN-UP®, has been found to boost the skin barrier by rebalancing epidermal serine proteases, such as plasmin, and promoting a harmonious interaction between the epidermis and skin microbiome.
Silke: The IFSCC also attracts many cosmetics companies serving end consumers. What would you say were the key themes for them?
Mathias: In his keynote lecture, Dr Frédéric Leroy from L’Oréal made the point that as the cosmetics industry becomes more globalized it will become less and less standardized, with product ranges increasingly required to address region and culture-specific beauty concerns. To adapt, the industry will need to understand not only the physiology of skin and hair types but also different consumers’ cultural history, environments, relationships with beauty, and cosmetics routines and habits.
The other theme that stood out is the increasing demand from consumers for tangible, relatable and easy-to-understand scientific evidence about the efficacy of their beauty products. One of the conference workshops was all about “optical non-invasive in-vivo measurements in cosmetics research”. There’s been great progress in these technologies which make it possible to observe skin from the inside while removing the need to take painful biopsies. These methods can help us to better understand the functionality of the skin, but they can also be used to illustrate the effects of skin care ingredients.
Silke: So do you think that we at DSM are prepared for these challenges?
Thomas: Absolutely- as a global company that prides itself on keeping in tune with consumers’ interests DSM is well aware that beauty needs can vary from region to region, culture to culture or depending on ethnicity or gender This is why, for example, our portfolio now includes many Halal-certified ingredients, or at-home hair care shampoo mixes that encourage experimentation for specific hair types, supporting the trend towards an easy, natural and personalized style.
I can also see a serendipitous overlap between the themes of diversity and making science tangible because in 2015 we used our own cutting-edge visualization technology to compare and contrast facial skin hydration needs in different ethnic groups. More recently, we’ve used this same technology to study dry skin and hydration specifically in Chinese women living in urban areas and to demonstrate the efficacy of our active PENTAVITIN® when used in the long term. Our consumer research regularly points out that users appreciate the reassurance of access to scientific evidence that products will benefit their health, routines and lives. Facial color skin hydration mapping technology is an excellent way to provide this evidence.
Silke: Thank you for your time